I think in the West there is a general misconception that Japan’s geisha are rather sordid, like high-class hookers, or at least that was the case until the film version of Arthur Golden’s Memoirs of A Geisha was released in 2005 (in which, interestingly, all the main female characters were played by Chinese actresses).
Both the book and the film purported to show geisha as the artists they are and not as “prostitutes, their lower-class counterparts”. While they did go some way towards exploring what a geisha is and does, eventually Sayuri and the other women in the story definitely leave the reader or viewer believing that a geisha will still drop her knickers if the price is right.But regardless of the seedy associations other people might make, many are still fascinated by geisha and find them mysterious and beautiful. That white makeup they wear, those towering shoes, the way they reportedly put themselves through so much physical suffering in the name of their art: all these things serve to intrigue.
The geisha world is inscrutable and lets few gaijin into its midst. There has only ever been one Western woman permitted to become a Geisha. An Australian social anthropologist was accepted into the geisha world in Kyoto a few years ago, but she was thrown out again recently when, according to the Asakusa Geisha Association, she was asked to leave. Other geisha claimed that the Australian woman, Fiona Graham, wouldn’t do all the tasks that were expected of her, such as attending flute lessons. She claims she was bullied and not allowed to become a proper geisha simply because she is a gaijin.
I don’t know what the true story is, but the fact that the only Western women ever to enter the mysterious world of geisha was unable to make a success of it – whether because she failed at it or was forced out – shows how difficult it must be for Westerners to understand what it means to be a geisha.
Before I even arrived in Kyoto, I knew, like so many other tourists, that I wanted to be made up like a geisha and to wear an elaborate kimono. I booked an appointment at one of the many studios which offers this service to women, Japanese and foreigners alike. In fact, when I was walking around the streets of Kyoto, I saw many more Japanese tourists dressed as geisha than foreign ones.
At the studio, I was the only gaijin. They didn’t speak much English but they knew why I was there so I didn’t even need to use my pidgin Japanese much.
First I chose my kimono – turquoise blue with white flowers and a bright red lining. Apparently the colours and patterns on kimono have some kind of symbolism. I have a book which contains a great deal of information about kimono but it’s kind of hard going…
Next my face was plastered in white makeup much like a mime artist or a clown, neither of which would I ever want to resemble. Happily, the make-up artist quickly moved on to pink eyeshadow, thick black eyebrows and bright red lips. It all felt heavy on my face, especially as I’m not used to wearing a great deal of make-up.
After the make-up, the strangest part: a massive styled wig resplendent with kanzashi (hair ornaments).
All this time I had been wearing a thin underrobe. The next step was to be dressed in the kimono.
There is a lot of material involved in a kimono. A lot.
There’s a lot of wrapping, tucking and winding. I could never repeat what they did, or dress myself. And when it was finished, it weighed a tonne! God knows how those tiny little Japanese girls can wear them all day – while tottering around on those ridiculously tall okubo (tall wooden clogs).
But the finished product, despite being uncomfortable, heavy and hot, looked pretty good. Not me, I looked kind of silly – like most gaijin do when wearing kimono – but the ensemble was impressive.
After a lengthy photo session I was relieved to remove the kimono and spend half an hour wiping the white make-up off (that stuff really sticks).
That was when I developed a newfound respect and admiration for geisha. Not only do they wear these uncomfortable outfits all day, they also perform dances and play instruments while being attentive hostesses and all the while remaining graceful, delicate and refined.
No Comments on "Maya the geisha girl"